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  14. kakeeler
    But aren't you supposed to add the Fermaid at a 1/3 brix drop? You shouldn't even need a chart for that. For the end of fermentation, we use a specific hydrometer (https://morewinemaking.com/products/hydrometer-brix-5.html), so that it's as precise as we're going to get it. We always have some oddity with non-fermentable sugars, which are probably just part of growing grapes here, but the more precise hydrometer helps.
  15. Joe_Sallo
    Mine finally gave up the ghost. A company makes them now, sold under AimTab Reducing Substance Tablets. Of course they cost 2 to 4 times what i could get 100 Clinitest for but the reality is i rarely got through a whole bottle before they went bad so it is what it is. Maybe they are doing me a favor selling only 36 tab bottles. I think they do foil packs too.
  16. moundtop
    Alas, Bayer Clinitest is no longer available. I purchased a stash of 200 tablets a few years ago that I continue to rely upon (On occasion, they show up on eBay at a premium price). As far as I know, an alternative for home winemakers is the Accuvin Residual Sugar Test....but I have no experience with that product. I would be interested in hearing about other alternatives that don't require a spectrophotometer or reagents with very limited shelf life.
  17. Joe_Sallo
    Where can you find clinitest? I thought Bayer quit making them again
  18. gwbod
    The main advantage to using the refractometer and the tables are to tell when you need to add your Fermaid. If you have a lot of fermenters going then the refractometer would be a lot quicker.
  19. moundtop
    It is not as accurate as hydrometry as mentioned above....but "good enough" to follow the progress of a fermentation. I have prepared a document describing the process and procedure: See http://www.moundtop.com/fermentation/RBRIX-ATC-Fermentation-Tables.pdf The refractometer approach's biggest problem is that it cannot be used to reliably to indicate dryness (end of fermentation). However, even a hydrometer comes up short here. As an amateur winemaker I rely upon Clinitest tablets to estimate the residual sugar level indicative of dryness. As always, there are many ways to skin this cat.
  20. gregorio
    You need the pre-ferment refractometer readings. Then, you can use some estimations/calculations down to the end. Not as accurate as a hydrometer, IMO but many people use it.
  21. kakeeler
    Hi Phil, To my understanding, after fermentation has begun, you cannot really get an accurate reading on the refractometer and that the hydrometer is much more accurate. It has something to do with the actual fermentation process. That's what I was told, so I use the refractometer up until crush, then I switch over. Always possible that what I've been told is wrong, but just passing along what I've heard. Kathy
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  28. Joel

    Welcome to Pages

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  29. shredmtb

    I am long time member who seldom posts. I have a small hobby vineyard in Berks Co PA.  Spotted Lanternfly showed first time last year. Wondering, since you recently got commercial applicators license, if you could comment on control methods.  Not much useful information available on line or at county ag agents.

    1. wxtrendsguy

      wxtrendsguy

      A blow torch or machine gun works well but not very good for your fruit. haha

      Here is a link to the newest info avail  extension.psu.edu/updated-insecticide-recommendations-for-spotted-lanternfly-on-tree-fruit  ...that being said my goal this year is to begin to build a IPM program that incorporates controlling SLF with my other insect issues.

      So my plan is to scout the vineyard this spring while pruning and look for egg masses.  Then use something that is effective for Leaf Hoppers, the first wave of Japanese Beetles, Grape Berry Moth and SLF nymphs in late June/early July.  The trick here is to get everyone to show up at the same time so I can get em all at once.  Most likely use Belay.  About 2.5 weeks later will do an application of Sevin to control SLF GBM, and JB.  In later July will probably spray Sevin again to take out JB and any SLF who wander in.  By early August or once I see enough adults around  I will do a spray of Brigade.  Then go to Actara around Sept 1 or sooner if I see the adults getting out of control. Then its Dinotefuron switched with Mustang Maxx until harvest.  On the early harvest grapes like Pinot and Chardonnay once harvest is complete I will come along and spray Brigade which should cover us till frost.  Later harvest grapes like Cab and Merlot will spray a dose of Actara to get me to killing frost...

      Good luck we are not planting anything further until the damage from this pest can be determined...its pretty bad though from what we can see.  

       

    2. shredmtb

      shredmtb

      Thanks so much for reply. I did use Sevin last year, did some scraping, but it all seems to be hit or miss. Likewise am not replacing dead vines until I see how it goes this year.  I really enjoy reading your posts on winepress, and I copied/adapted your spray schedule a couple of years ago.  Hope to visit your winery sometime this year. Thanks

    3. wxtrendsguy

      wxtrendsguy

      Well hope to see you I am here most weekends except this one.

  30. shredmtb shredmtb changed their profile photo

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