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Hi Chano,

Thanks for the offer, I really appreciate it!  I have been doing some research to try and get quickly up to speed on all of this, even visited a winery I am a member at (White Rose Winery, Dundee OR) and took a walk through their vineyard two days ago.  Their entire estate vineyard consists of 40 year self rooted pommard vines cordon (bilateral) spur trained spaced about 8 feet apart, monster old vines.  They have another vineyard site i didn't look at but plan to this weekend, that site is  3309 clone 115 CANE trained with 4 foot spacing.  My plan is to go back and compare the two sites so i have a better idea what would suite my site.  And it was nice to see tons of fruit on the SPUR vines as Ive seen countless articles that SPUR training can yield less fruit due to buds proximity to basal non count buds..  I guess my biggest question that I have been struggling to find an answer for is whether SPUR or CANE would be more ideal for training...  I planted over 100 pinot noir vines about 36 inches apart..  Domaine Drouhin did the same out here (3m x 3m) in the Dundee Hills and per their facebook photos it looks like they are Unilateral CANE pruned..  So maybe I will do this?  I like the idea of SPUR training and leaving space between the buds (fist or 6 inches) but is there any reason why i cant do that with CANE pruning to prevent over-crowding or preventing there from being buds pointed down?  Is that common for CANE pruning to rub off the downward facing buds to minimize fruit and shoots growing downwards?  I dont even want to begin asking questions in regards to a spray program cuz it looks like just a massive confusing topic on the forum..  I am so far spraying with Stylet Oil every two weeks.. so far my vines look green and happy..  I know i should be alternating between sprays but down know what that second spray or third spray should be..  more research!  Thanks!

Beach

Allow me to state that cane pruning creates fewer cuts which makes a vine less susceptible to diseases.  Ask any grower why he/she uses the VSP system is that no pruning skill is required. Many vineyards usually at pruning time hire skilled and non-skilled pruners.. Training a new pruner only takes about ten minutes and only needs to be instructed to leave two buds. For cane pruning, it takes a few years, period. For cane pruning once you get the knack of it, you do not need to count buds and judgement takes into consideration the entire vine canopy by assessing previous year's year production. My rule is no more than nine buds per cane.

Personally if I were a small grower (Vinifera) I would cane prune  As far as buds proximity to their bases, here is what  has worked for me. As a rule, I like those buds with more sun exposure for next year's crop. Normally in most vineyard pruners prune to two buds one may be on the sun side and the second on the shade side.  I leave three buds and see how they grow. If all three buds grow, I rub the one on the shade side and leave the two on the sun side and try to keep them as vertically as possible because research concluded that vertically positioned spurs/canes are more productive. Check this with any "grape doctor" and see what they say.  Thanks.

Chano

Thanks Chano!  This is exactly what i was told by the vineyard manager at white rose this past weekend in regards to prune cane requiring less cuts and susceptibility to disease!  Thanks!  And thank you for pointing out the idea of leaving an extra bud to ensure those that received the most sunlight are kept for the seasons crop!  Great idea!  I'm going to use one vine as an experimental one and spur prune it..  I'll go ahead and leave three as suggested and see how it all works out and compares to the remaining cane pruned vines!  Thank you for the response!  Greatly appreciated.