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2010 Wine Plan

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Peter Lynch

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FWIW, here is my basic wine plan for fall 2010. What's not mentioned is that many of these wines will ultimately be blended together but I have only a vague idea about the blends and need to wait to see how each wine develops. I'll try to address that in a later post. smileycheers.gif

 

Red Wines

 

Suisun Cabernet Sauvignon – 72 lbs.

  • Crush –100% Whole Berries
  • Additives:
    • Color Pro 2 - 4 mL
    • Opti-Red or Booster Rouge 6 - 8 g
    • Tannins 5 g

    [*]Yeast: ICV-D21[*]Oak: 35 Cubes American Medium Toast

Suisun Merlot – 108 lbs.

  • Crush – 100% Whole Berries
  • Additives:
    • Color Pro 3 - 5 mL
    • Opti-Red or Booster Rouge 10 - 12 g
    • Tannins 8 g

    [*]Yeast: MT[*]Oak: 70 Cubes French Medium Toast

Suisun Petite Sirah – 108 lbs.

  • Crush –100% Whole Berries
  • Additives:
    • Color Pro 3 - 5 mL
    • Opti-Red or Booster Rouge 10 - 12 g
    • Tannins 8 g

    [*]Yeast: RP15[*]Oak: 80 Cubes American Medium Toast

Suisun Syrah – 72 lbs.

  • Crush – 100% Whole Berries
  • Additives:
    • Color Pro 2 - 4 mL
    • Opti-Red or Booster Rouge 6 - 8 g
    • Tannins 5 g

    [*]Yeast: Syrah[*]Oak: 30 Cubes Hungarian Medium Toast

Sangiovese – 72 lbs.

  • Crush – 80% Whole Berries / 20% Whole Cluster (if stems have lignified)
  • Additives:
    • Color Pro 2 - 4 mL
    • Opti-Red or Booster Rouge 6 - 8 g
    • Tannins 6 g

    [*]Yeast: BM45[*]Extended Maceration (for additional tannin and woody extract from stems. Seeds must be brown. Attempt at a more tuscan style sangiovese)[*]Oak: 35 Cubes Hungarian Medium Toast

Barbera – 72 lbs.

  • Crush – 100% Whole Berries
  • Additives:
    • Color Pro 2 - 4 mL
    • Opti-Red or Booster Rouge 6 - 8 g
    • Tannins 5 g

    [*]Yeast: BRL-97[*]Oak: 35 Cubes Hungarian Medium Toast

Grenache – 72 lbs.

  • Crush – 100% Whole Berries
  • Additives:
    • Color Pro 2 - 4 mL
    • Opti-Red or Booster Rouge 6 - 8 g
    • Tannins 5 g

    [*]Yeast: ICV-D80[*]Oak: 35 Cubes Hungarian Medium Toast

White Wines

 

Chardonnay – 6 gal.

  • Additives:
    • Opti-White or Booster Blanc 10 - 12 g

    [*]Yeast: VL3

Chardonnay – 6 gal.

  • Additives:
    • Opti-White or Booster Blanc 10 - 12 g
    • Oak: 60 Cubes American Medium Toast

    [*]Yeast: Montrachet

Pinot Gris – 6 gal.

  • Additives:
    • Opti-White or Booster Blanc 10 - 12 g

    [*]Yeast: R-2

Pinot Blanc – 6 gal.

  • Additives:
    • Opti-White or Booster Blanc 10 - 12 g
    • Oak: 60 Cubes Hungarian Medium Toast

    [*]Yeast: CY3079

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Peter, this is quite an undertaking! I always appreciate your feedback in the forums and appreciate you posting your plans for all of us to see. I am new to this, so can I ask why you are adding tannins to each batch of grape must? Is that a personal preference you have for high tannins or am I missing something? I am getting Napa PN and Washing ton Merlot grapes next month but I was planning on only using the skins for tannins.

 

Good luck!!

 

 

Steve Santos

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Steve, thanks for the kind words. To answer your question tannins can do more then simply add astringency. They bind with many other wine phenolics, specifically color molecules early on in the fermentation. This may enhance color but, more importantly, it can stabilize color molecules which could otherwise switch into a colorless form thus maintaining better color throughout aging. This is the primary reason I add tannin (Tannin VR Supra) . There are other types of tannin products used for various purposes on the market and you should take time when you have it to read up on the uses of these tannin supplements.

 

While first starting out I would probably avoid such products until I was comfortable with the basic process unless I was working with small experimental lots. The best route to making good wine is good material (fruit, must, etc), a clean fermentation and mindful stewardship. Everything else is icing on the cake.

 

Good luck with your Pinot and Merlot this fall! luxhello.gif

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Steve, thanks for the kind words. To answer your question tannins can do more then simply add astringency. They bind with many other wine phenolics, specifically color molecules early on in the fermentation. This may enhance color but, more importantly, it can stabilize color molecules which could otherwise switch into a colorless form thus maintaining better color throughout aging. This is the primary reason I add tannin (Tannin VR Supra) . There are other types of tannin products used for various purposes on the market and you should take time when you have it to read up on the uses of these tannin supplements.

 

While first starting out I would probably avoid such products until I was comfortable with the basic process unless I was working with small experimental lots. The best route to making good wine is good material (fruit, must, etc), a clean fermentation and mindful stewardship. Everything else is icing on the cake.

 

Good luck with your Pinot and Merlot this fall! roflmao.gif

 

Thanks Peter. I thought I read somewhere once (maybe it was you) where the addition of tannins actually binds to the existing tannin to lenthen/soften them. Regardless, I will be taking your advice and focusing on the basics for now...I just got a bunch of new testing kits from MoreWine, PH Meter, Chromo, AO, etc, so this should where my learning curve steepens a bit ...I hope!luxhello.gif

Good luck with your wine and please keep us posted!

 

Steve

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Steve, yes tannin polymerization can occur but because every wine's chemistry is different it's sometimes hard to predict the results. Many times we cross our fingers and hope for the best BUT always take good notes and don't introduce too many variables at once. This will help you backtrack over a few years to determine what works best and assist you in developing your own style.Good luck with your wines this year and I will do my best to post my results! luxhello.gif

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