22 replies to this topic

[awatkins3]

I have gone through 4 corkers in two years. Here's what happens: After about 2 months of flawless performance (1500 bottles), the brass fitting begins to not close as much as it did. So, now sometimes the cork goes in all the way and sometimes it doesn't. I greased up the jaws with food grade grease but this doesn't seem to help. Any advise? I hate to spend $2000 on a pneumatic corker if I can help it.

[P Cuthbert]

You can get replacement jaws for these corkers.

I do wonder about the service life you are getting though. 1500 corks is too few.

How often do you disassemble and clean your corker? Instead of grease, you may wish to use a food grade silicone spray. You can apply that every 100 bottles or so to keep things moving easily without any buildup of grease.

Pat

[Crazy Run Ranch]

I have gone through 4 corkers in two years. Here's what happens: After about 2 months of flawless performance (1500 bottles), the brass fitting begins to not close as much as it did. So, now sometimes the cork goes in all the way and sometimes it doesn't. I greased up the jaws with food grade grease but this doesn't seem to help. Any advise? I hate to spend $2000 on a pneumatic corker if I can help it.

I was just trying to make an old Ferrari work last night. I had a relatively new one next to it so I could compare the differences. The old unit puts huge dents in the cork and sometimes knocks a corner off the cork going into the bottle. The new works perfect. I measured the diameter of the jaws closed and the old unit is not closing the jaws as far. I pulled the springs out so I could cycle it w/o the top plate on. I think I discovered the problem, at least with my unit. The lever pushes a lever that closes the jaws as you drop the handle. The old unit has worn the holes oversize where the handle pivots on the body of the corker. This allow the pivot to move back slightly when it comes down. This effectively reduces the distance it moves the lever and jaws. Less compression of the corks is whats causing the dents and breaking corners. My theory is that the cork is not as stiff because its not compressed enough, leading to the dents.
This corker has done many more than 1500 bottles though. The newer one has probably done that many and it stills works great. So maybe you have other issues going on.

[Peter Lynch]

After about 2 months of flawless performance (1500 bottles), the brass fitting begins to not close as much as it did. So, now sometimes the cork goes in all the way and sometimes it doesn't. I greased up the jaws with food grade grease but this doesn't seem to help. Any advise?

Yes, this does happen with very heavily used Italian floor corkers. If you're grinding through that many you might think about going with a Rapid floor corker. However, I've refurb (so to speak) an Italian floor model that had your problems. Basically I disassembled and placed washers between the 2 fixed brass jaws (there are 4) and the screws that hold them in place. This seemed to help tighten up the closure. I now use it without an issue. I'll try to get some pictures if possible and post them in the next day or two. Good luck!

[Howie]

...So, now sometimes the cork goes in all the way and sometimes it doesn't...

Are you using the same bottles? The only time I ever have this problem is with re-used Italian wine bottles, which have narrower necks and are designed to take #8 corks, whereas French, German and US bottles have wider necks to take a #9 cork. A dime will not fit into the neck of an Italian wine bottle. I've had Ferrari's for over 30 years and did little regarding maintenance. My first one I sold a few years ago and only replaced it to upgrade to one with a wider opening that allows Champagne corks. The only times I have this problem is with Italian bottles.

[Peter Lynch]

Here's the picture I promised:
 corker_1.jpg   188.88K   486 downloads

[smokegrub]

Suggest you contact the company and discuss this problem with them. 1500 corks is far to few with a corker of this caliber.

[Crazy Run Ranch]

 IMG_1100.JPG   77.76K   247 downloads  IMG_1099.JPG   75.86K   294 downloads

I was just trying to make an old Ferrari work last night. I had a relatively new one next to it so I could compare the differences. The old unit puts huge dents in the cork and sometimes knocks a corner off the cork going into the bottle. The new works perfect. I measured the diameter of the jaws closed and the old unit is not closing the jaws as far. I pulled the springs out so I could cycle it w/o the top plate on. I think I discovered the problem, at least with my unit. The lever pushes a lever that closes the jaws as you drop the handle. The old unit has worn the holes oversize where the handle pivots on the body of the corker. This allow the pivot to move back slightly when it comes down. This effectively reduces the distance it moves the lever and jaws. Less compression of the corks is whats causing the dents and breaking corners. My theory is that the cork is not as stiff because its not compressed enough, leading to the dents.
This corker has done many more than 1500 bottles though. The newer one has probably done that many and it stills works great. So maybe you have other issues going on.

I finished "tuning up" this old Ferrari and thought I would add on to my original post. This rebuild did highlight that maintainence is required for these units.
First, my first post about the metal holes wearing oversize turned out to be wrong but the net affect of reducing compression at the jaws is the same. The pin that serves as the pivot for the handle is what was wearing on the corker. Check the 2nd picture above. These grooves allowed the pivot to travel away from the jaws during compression, thus not compressing enough. This pin had to be hammered out of the unit, it had seized tight onto the handle. Once it seized, the pin started rotating instead of the handle rotating on the pin. Once the pin started rotating, it started to wear. When I discovered this, I went to the newer corker and checked the operation. The pin was just starting to rotate when cycled thru. I pulled out the pin, which has not yet seized, and found it totally dry of lubrication. I applied some grease, reinstalled, and no rotation of the pin yet smooth action. I will now pull the pin and lubricate after each use, I suggest anyone owning a Ferrari do the same. Since there is no mechanism for greasing assembled, you really need to pull the pin to do it. This is easy, removed one nut and pull the pin.
Back to the rebuild. Since the pin was toast, I went to Ace Hardware and found a replacement bolt shown below. I had to get a long one so the bolt shoulder with no thread was serve the same function as the original pin. This required a couple washer stacked to tighten the bolt. Someday, I may cut off the excess bolt but for now its working. Once reassembled, I checked the cork compression to compare with the good corker. It was the same! Inserted some corks and its working very well.
The most important take away is maintenance. Lube the pivot pin or it will wear out. Its just a matter of time. With grease, I should last indefinately.

[tomtom]

Here's a confirming opinion that the bearing pin needs lubrication, along with a good explanation of what happens without it.

http://www.barossa-r...unctioning.html

[zap3584]

Thanks for the heads up. I went right to the cellar and checked my Ferrari corker and checked the pivot pin. It was dry and had to be driven out.
The corker is relatively new and I found there was paint on the inside of the handle where the pivot pin was supposed to be moving freely. It wasn't.
I used a dremel tool to get the paint off the handle hole and then had to file the pivot pin to smooth a burr on one end. Finally got them to mate and work correctly. Then found I also had to dremel out the the pivot pin holes in the frame a little pit also.
I then noted a slight scraping when the cork inserter rod passed through the closed jaws. A few taps with hammer got that back in line.

Thanks again guys. This site is great.
Walt

[EJA]

I hate to bring up this old thread - but I just took apart my Italian floor corker to clean it up, check for worn parts, and paint. I bought this used about 4 years ago for $40, and have put over 2000 bottles through it. I don't know how much it was used before, but I suspect less than 500 bottles.

So, I cleaned out all the crud, wire brushed the brass jaws, then scrapped, sanded and painted the entire unit. There was no wear on any component, but one thing I did notice was the jaws opening slightly at the end of the travel, which brought me to this thread. Begin a former tool & die maker, the problem intrigued me. Based on the comments here, I should have something worn out, but I don't. What I discovered is that the four plates (2 on each side) that connect the handle to the unit that pushes the jaw, travels past level. When these plates are level, the jaws are as closed as they can be. Once past level, the plates actually start to pull the "jaw pushing" unit backwards, until the stop hits. I don't know if anyone else's unit does this, but I will check my friend who has a new Italian corker. This is either a design flaw, or is intended to release the pressure on the cork a bit once it is in the bottle. It is probably a design flaw, and I don't see any way to fix it without major surgery.

With all that said, it has worked flawlessly since I have owned it. It looks brand new right now. I will be bottling tonight, so I will see if it works as well as before.

Eric

[Howie]

...I don't know if anyone else's unit does this, but I will check my friend who has a new Italian corker. This is either a design flaw, or is intended to release the pressure on the cork a bit once it is in the bottle. It is probably a design flaw, and I don't see any way to fix it without major surgery...

I'm on my second one and both did this. I believe it is intended to release the pressure on the cork during insertion.

[rrs18]

I have had my Ferrari for over 7 years and have bottles nearly 5,000 bottles during that time. No maintenance except for a little vaseline on the springs.

Works fine. Like new.

[EJA]

I'm on my second one and both did this. I believe it is intended to release the pressure on the cork during insertion.

Thanks Howie - that was a thought that I had, since the cork is about half way in at that point, it may release the pressure a bit on the jaws, so as not to create too much friction.

Eric

[Ed S]

Eric,

I tested my Farrari corker, which is relatively new as you know. It operates the same as you observed, that is - the iris closes as the lever is lowered until the pin crosses the plain atop the brass iris at which time it begins to open slightly. This appears to be by design as others have suggested, to allow ease of insertion of the cork, lowering friction within the iris.

To date I have had no problems with it.