65 replies to this topic

[RSG]

Hammered asked if i would post some pics of the barrel making process....modern barrel making that is, as it related to the home wine maker. Provided you have the patience and some power tools you can cooper too! This post is pic heavy.

The raw white oak, air dried 2 to 3 years.


Planing the wood to an even thickness.


Roughing out the staves.


Preparing the jig for routing the cant and curve.


Raising the barrel.


Makeshift steam chamber.


Head staves roughed out complete with reeds.


16 gau. Sheet steel with hoops roughed out.


Finished galvanized hoop.


Seating the hoops.


go to page two for the final images......

[RSG]

Trimmed Chime.


Croze cut.


Inside walls toasted.


Heads inserted.


Finished barrel.


And that's all there is to it.

[NorthernWiner]

Very impressive. Thanks for sharing these photos.

[HonkingGooseWine]

WOW !!!!

I want to be your neighbor OH, can I come use your wood shop Please.

I helped a friend make a wood Mckenzie style drift boat several years ago. So, I can truly appreciate your excellent craftsmanship.

Frank

[Hammered]

Ron,

Beautiful. You've got me salivating to try one.

You've obviously left out a number of steps in your process, but for an initial question, how did you develop the curve for the staves? I see how you cut them, but I'm interested in how you laid it out.

Second question, how did you pull the staves in after you steamed it?

[toomuchwine]

Ron,
You are truely going to be an asset to this place. I can't tell you how many times I've wanted to do this.
Don

[RSG]

You've obviously left out a number of steps in your process, but for an initial question, how did you develop the curve for the staves? I see how you cut them, but I'm interested in how you laid it out.

Yes! there are a few setps that have been left out for obvious reasons. To answer your questions.

Since there are several styles of wooden vessels and a "barrel" happens to be one. There is a percentage factor you can use to determine the stave size.

Stave width should be no greater than 1.28% wider in the middle than at the head. So a stave that is 1.75"w at the head should be 2.25"w in the middle. But the curve must not run the entire length of the stave but rather come from about 1/3 of the way down and be tangent (smooth).

The bildge dia. should never exceed the head dia. by more than 1.2% (of course there is the exception as whisky barrels have less of a bildge).

Heck, just go measure one you like


Bending the staves, when raised only require one head hoop and one bildge hoop to hold it together. The whole lot is put in the steam chamber for 2 hours. You would be very suprised how soft the wood gets after that. You have to be quick to close the staves in though as they cool they become very ridged again. I made a stave puller from steel and threaded rod in my shop but you could do it with those rachet straps they sell at hardware stores. You need to buy a big one though.

With a bit of work it can be done. And the resulting product makes for great conversation in the cellar. I'd be glad to help with advice if you want.

Ron

[Al F]

impressive........hmmmmm........trade you some patriots or bruins tickets for barrels

[Hammered]

Ron,

So I'm clear, the sides of the staves are parallel for the first 1/3 of the length then taper into the curve? (this is similar to the ancient Greek columns that were built cylindrical at the bottom 1/3 then tapered to the top to keep them from looking concave from a distance due to perspective -- called entasis.)

Do you have a source for the dried oak or are you drying it yourself? Do the planks need to be planed? Some of the neutral barrels I have obtained don't appear to have been.

Lastly, (for this post) how much would you say the raw materials for, say, a 15 gallon barrel would cost?

[Robert_P]

Ron,

You rock dude!!!

I build furniture used around the house and have done some steam bending in the past but would never have thought about this sort of approach to making a barrel. Excellent idea !!

That pile of white oak sitting in the back of my wood shop is looking mighty lonely right now. Might have to hook it up with a new purpose in life.

Thank you for the great pictures and information.




//Robert

[RSG]

I build furniture used around the house and have done some steam bending in the past but would never have thought about this sort of approach to making a barrel. Excellent idea !!

That pile of white oak sitting in the back of my wood shop is looking mighty lonely right now. Might have to hook it up with a new purpose in life.

Thank you for the great pictures and information.


//Robert

LOL....right on Robert! sounds like you have the material and skills....have at it. If I can help let me know...


To answer your questions Hammered....

So I'm clear, the sides of the staves are parallel for the first 1/3 of the length then taper into the curve?
That is correct.

(this is similar to the ancient Greek columns that were built cylindrical at the bottom 1/3 then tapered to the top to keep them from looking concave from a distance due to perspective -- called entasis.)
I didn't know that...very interesting.

Do you have a source for the dried oak or are you drying it yourself?
I buy it from a gentleman who mills wood as a hobby.

Do the planks need to be planed? Some of the neutral barrels I have obtained don't appear to have been.
I do run the lumber through the thickness planer

Lastly, (for this post) how much would you say the raw materials for, say, a 15 gallon barrel would cost?
About $45.00

[IVAN Z]

WOW another great asset to this form. How do you insert the lids? Pressure only? And how did you measure the hoop vs the barrel. Great job and thanks. I think many here have thought about this at least once.

[pbishop57]

WOW another great asset to this form. How do you insert the lids? Pressure only? And how did you measure the hoop vs the barrel. Great job and thanks. I think many here have thought about this at least once.

Isn't it important to use 1/4sawn oak only?

[RSG]

WOW another great asset to this form. How do you insert the lids? Pressure only? And how did you measure the hoop vs the barrel. Great job and thanks. I think many here have thought about this at least once.

When fitting the heads on a new barrel you have to fiddle with it allot. Sometimes being easier to insert the head in two peices fom inside the barrel rather than from outside. On a re-coopered barrel you can usually just lay it on the chime and hit it with a coopers mallet and it will pop right in. Then re-fit the quearter and head hoops.

The hoops are measured using a template made of styrene plastic but paper works ok too. It's wrapped around the barrel after the first raising and drawen to shape.....sometimes needing to be fit and re-fit until it sits right. Then transfered to the steel so you can cut it out on a band saw. The coopers of yesterday used steel banding that they pounded on one edge to produce the correct taper to match the barrel.....too much work for me

[Hammered]

I've been seeing local wineries selling their neutral barrels for about $25 each. Do you think that cutting the inside 1/4" off the inside -- basically recooping the staves, then cutting them down like your patterns to make a smaller barrel (I'm wanting some 15 gallon ones) would work?

Would the hoops be able to be cut down/shortened and re-rivetted and re-used?